Basic Glove - Quality Tips for Knitting Fingers

You may find one or more of the following twelve tips helpful for knitting fingers of gloves. Included are techniques to prevent holes and tips for fit and needle sizes. Read more ..... for tips.

  1. Start the finger round on the palm side of the hand so that the yarn tails will be woven in on the palm, not the on the top of the hand. More people see the top of the hand than the palm.
  2. In the finger charts (refer to an example above) the start of round is a number of stitches away from the cast on stitches so that the yarn is well anchored, before new stitches are added. This helps to maintain tension.
  3. There are a number of tips to prevent "holes" where stitches are either cast on or picked up. These include:
    a) picking up two extra stitches at the intersection of the existing loops (after "hand" stitch 22 and the pink/dark blue st; and after the pink/dark blue st before "palm" stitch 38.) When I pick up the stitches between fingers (bicolored circles), I will pick up and knit an additional stitch at the preceding or following solid colored circle (intersections) to reduce the likelihood of a hole, if the yarn dictates the need. On the subsequent round, I knit these "extra" stitches together with the nearest palm or back of hand stitch. For this example, the dark blue finger in the illustration above was knitted first and 5 (dark blue/pink) sts had been cast on between the palm and back-of-hand loops, before the pink finger was begun.
    b) Knit the first few rounds with 3 dpns, if you plan on later using 2 circulars. Using 3 dpns and a 4th working needle, allows you to create acute (small) angles at the intersections, which helps minimize holes or stretched loops.
    c) Knit the "picked up" stitches through the backs of the loops on the second round.
    d) Instead of beginning the round at stitch 38 for the pink finger, you may want to start the round at stitch 40 so that the yarn tail isn't at the intersection of a picked up stitch.
  4. Keep a 10" tail at the beginning of a finger round. This allows you plenty of yarn to weave in. Plus, you can use the yarn and duplicate stitch to fill in or tighten an intersection loop if desired.
  5. Finger FitFinger FitAfter you have knitted about 1/2" of finger, try it on for fit. Make sure to push the finger down so it is fully seated in the base of the "V". (The photo at right shows how it looks when not fully seated. Click on the thumbnail to view a larger image.)

    Now is the time to make circumference adjustments. If the finger is too tight (for example, if it is an effort to seat in the "V"), back up to the initial cast ons and add a loop or two. There are variations in the weight of fingering weight yarns and this step is important, particularly for form fitting gloves. This is similar to the need for wider seem allowances in sewing thicker fabrics. If the finger fits, now is a good time to weave in the yarn tail for a 1/2", but do not cut it at this point.

    As you continue to knit the finger, try the glove on periodically to determine the starting point for finger tip decreases. The length of the knitted finger depends on the variation of finger circumference along its length and it is easier to just try the glove on for the ideal fit. When you knit the second glove with the same yarn, you can knit to the dimensions established by the first glove unless the fingers of one of your hands are significantly more muscular.

  6. Star FingerStar FingerWhen completing the finger, err on the side of having an extra row, rather than one too few. For the "star" fingertip at right, the last 8 sts are drawn to the inside and then drawn tight, so knitting to about 1 row beyond the fingertip is appropriate. When the neighboring finger is knitted, the fit may change. Leave a 10" tail at the top until all the fingers and thumb are knitted and fitted. This provides yarn for adjustment, if required.
  7. Wind a yarn bobbin with the yarn for the thumb before starting the glove, so that you don't have to break the yarn and interrupt the knitting of the body of the glove. This also leaves you the leeway to partially knit the thumb and retain yarn on the bobbin to complete the thumb later.
  8. It is helpful to use needles a couple of diameters smaller in size to pick up the stitches above and below the waste yarn thumb opening. For dark yarns or fuzzy yarns like the dark blue mohair, it may be easier to pick up the purl stitches from the inside of the glove, rather than the stocking stitches from the outside.
  9. For the provisional thumb opening method, knit to within 3 rows of the start of the fingers and then knit most, if not all of the thumb. The thumb will stretch the fabric on the palm, so it needs to be there to get the right measure of rows before the fingers are started.
  10. When knitting multi-colored (stranded, woven) gloves, I find that the tension and appearance are improved if the yarn tails are woven in 4 rows after a color change was completed. This also provides better access for weaving than after the glove is complete.
  11. When knitting a glove with a stranded (Fair Isle style) body, knit the single color stocking stitch portions with smaller diameter needles to match the tension of the stranded, circular stocking stitch more accurately.
  12. For fine gauge yarns (like mohair) I knit the fingertips with needles a couple of sizes smaller than the body of the glove for increased durability. Since mohair is "fuzzy", the change in gauge isn't visible.

Related Posts
Basic Glove
Basic Glove - Fingers
Basic Glove - Thumb Opening

New Monica Knits Baby Sock Pattern for Sale!